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How to beat the winter beauty “blahs”
Written by Bobbi Brown    Print E-mail
It happens every January. Like clockwork, sometime around the first of the month—after I’ve gone to the last of the holiday parties and all the festive decorations have finally been stowed away—I catch my reflection in the mirror and just look blah. My skin looks a little dull and red in places, and I’m not as bright-eyed as I usually am. I’ve got a case of the winter beauty doldrums. If this sounds familiar to you, take heart. With the right makeup, it’s easy to beat the beauty blahs. Here’s what you can to do freshen and brighten up your look this month.

1. Problem: Puffy Undereyes
Solution:
• Soothe and help shrink the area with a cold compress (a damp wash cloth will do).
• Go with two shades of a yellow-based concealer to help counteract the dark circles and fake flat skin. Dab a concealer that’s one shade darker than your foundation directly onto the puffs to help visually recede them. Apply a concealer that’s one shade lighter and brighter than your foundation under the puffy area to call attention to the flatter, smoother skin there. Blend both concealers with a fingertip.
• Set the area with loose powder. In addition to locking in the concealer, the powder will give a soft, matte finish as opposed to the glowy one of the concealer, which reflects light and draws more attention to puffiness.
• Skip liner and mascara on the lower lashes since they will just emphasize the problem area.

2. Problem: Parched, flaky, lips that prevent your lipstick from going on evenly.
Solution:
• Forget about the oft quoted “exfoliate with an old toothbrush trick.” Can you say, ouch? Instead, soothe and protect your lips by applying an extra emollient eye cream
• Then, gently slough off the dry, dead, skin cells with a damp washcloth.
• Keep lip balm in every handbag and apply it every time your lips feel remotely dry to help prevent the problem in the first place.

3. Problem: Your makeup rubs off every time you blow your nose, which unfortunately, is frequently.
Solution:
• Lengthen the life of your foundation by using a velour puff to apply sheer powder around your nose and mouth. The puff will help to really “set” the makeup, versus a brush, which just imparts a light, all-over shine blotting application‑not something you need this time of year.
• To help prevent lipstick smearage, opt for a creamy matte versus glossy or slick formulas, which are more likely to slide off even of their own accord.
• Line and fill in lips with a pencil. The liner creates a dry base for the lipstick to adhere to.
• You can also skip lipstick all together and create a long lasting, soothing formulation. I like to make my own lip tint by first combining lip pencil and lip balm in the palm of my hand and then pressing the mixture onto my lips. It wears a lot longer than a traditional lipstick.

4. Problem: Your skin looks wan and washed out
Solution: Break out the bronzer
• First pick your perfect formulation. Powder is a good option for most skin types and should be dusted on with a big fluffy brush for a seamless look. Cream is ideal for dry skin, and gel, a good choice for oily skin. Both can be applied and blended with either a makeup sponge or fingers.
• Depending on your skin tone, go with a light, medium of dark version for the most natural look—never try to go darker than your skin tone; you’ll just look muddy.
• Regardless of what formula you choose, apply the bronzer to the areas of your face that naturally pick up the most color from the sun—your forehead, nose, cheeks, and chin.
• For a truly fresh-faced look, add a touch of blush onto the apples of your cheeks. I think pink, from pale pink to rose, flatters all complexions because pink is the color our cheeks turn when we’re naturally flushed.

5. Problem: No matter how little of it you apply, your powder looks cakey and unnatural.
Solution:
• If you have dry skin, chances are it is even drier in the winter, so you can skip powder altogether.
• Women with oily skin are often less oily in the winter and don't need to use as much powder as they do during warmer months. I suggest applying powder just where skin tends to be extra oily—forehead, cheeks, nose and chin.
• Consider blotting paper, which sops up excess oil without looking dry and cakey and can be used before and after your makeup application.


6. Problem: Your regular foundation just doesn’t look right
Solution:
• It’s more than likely your skin is fairer this time of year so you may need to switch to a foundation that’s one or two shades lighter than your usual shade.
• Foundation can look cakey, streaky, and obvious on dry skin. Switching to a moisturizing formula will help ensure an even, natural-looking application.


7. Problem: Your eye makeup runs every time you go outside and when you have a cold.
Solution:
• Prime lids with a sheer face powder to absorb any excess oil, which can cause makeup to smudge and smear. Dust a little over the concealer under your eyes, too; its emolliency can also cause makeup slippage.
• Switch to waterproof mascara.
• Opt for a long-wearing water-resistant eyeliner such as my Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner.

8. Problem: Parched irritated skin
Solution:
• Start washing your face with tepid rather than ultra drying hot water.

9. Problem: Seriously parched, irritated skin
Solution:
• Layer on different kinds of moisturizers to really ensure your skin stays well hydrated so your makeup looks positively seamless. Every winter morning I apply my face oil, moisturizing cream, and moisturizing balm.


10. Problem: Dry rough patches
Solution:
• Exfoliate. An exfoliating cleanser, like my Exfoliating Cream Wash can be used daily by most skin types to encourage cell turnover and the removal of dry, dead flaky cells, which can seriously impede a perfect makeup application. Extremely dry, and sensitive skins might want to use it only a few times a week. If your patches are extra stubborn, try a manual exfoliator, which contain beads or scrubs) once or twice a week.
 

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