We spoke to top UK surfer Jack Dougall and found out a bit more about his experiences and why surfing is a great way of keeping fit and healthy.

FF. What got you into surfing.

Both my parents are keen travelers so ever since I can remember I’ve been dragged around far off beaches of the world. I was pretty much brought up in the water and could swim before I could walk and so I some of my earliest memories are body surfing shorebreaks. We always used to go and watch the WCT (World Championship Tour) surf events in France so it was just a matter of time before I got on a board myself.

FF. Have you always been into sports, if so what sports.

I grew up loving sports. I used to swim and play rugby for my county but once I started talking surf competitions seriously everything else took second place.

FF. What age did you start and how long did it take you to get to a good standard.

I got my first board at the age of 10. Kelly Slater (9 times world champion) said ‘it’s the hardest sport to get good at’ and I definitely agree. It seems the more I improve the more I realise how much I’ve got to learn. There are so many factors that can stop you improving. It’s not like tennis or golf where you can go out and practise wherever and whenever you want, your completely reliant on nature. Growing up in the UK is an extra challenge, we do have some world class waves but they are more fickle than other places and you also have to battle with our winters water temperatures.

FF. Whats your best memory from your surfing life.

That’s a tough question they are all good. To be honest my favorite feeling is probably the anticipation that comes before surfing. The feeling you get when you turn up at a beach and can see the waves are perfect, I can never seem to get changed quick enough and end up skipping down the beach trying to pull up my wetsuit.

FF. Whats the best place you have surfed and why
There are too many to say. I love surfing at home with all the Woolacombe boys. It’s always good fun as there is always great banter in the water and usually a night in the pub to follow. But there is nothing better than travelling the world on your own and finding new waves that no one has surfed before. Indonesia in 1997 was pretty unbeatable. There was a lot of political unrest which made the place totally empty and crazily cheap. Surfed some of the world's best waves with no one else in the water. I did a crazy trip hitching around El Salvador which was pretty extreme. Never seen so many machine guns! I’ve just got back from a surf trip around Panama and Columbia which was amazing. All my cash cards got blocked as soon as I arrived so I spent 2 weeks sleeping in the jungle and teaching surfing for food. The people out there were so friendly and some great uncrowded waves.

FF. Have you ever had any injury's from surfing

Too often! I have a long scar from a fin breaking off in my stomach in Fiji and a scar on my chin where the nose of my board went through and knocked out my tooth in South Africa - had a long paddle in dripping blood thinking I was gonna get eaten by sharks. I’ve bounced off coral reefs all over Indonesia sliced open my foot on a rock reefs in El Salvador and more recently been smashed into cliffs cracking my ribs and giving myself concussion on a big Christmas day swell in Portugal.


FF. What motivates you in life
I have the tattoo ‘yet all experience is an arch wherethro’ gleams that untravell’d world’ on my inner arm…I think that kinda sums everything up.

FF. Whats your best achievement with your surfing career.

I’ve never been a great competition surfer. I’m not super competitive and I always get really nervous. Probably my best results are making the finals in British University Comp and a couple of finals in the British Tedzo Cup.

FF. Where do you see yourself going, whats your next goal.

I just want to keep travelling and find more and more undiscovered waves. I’ve started to lose interest in the main surf breaks of the world, I want the full experience of not knowing what’s around the next corner. My main goal is to write lots of surf travel articles but not just to the surf world. Surfing is growing all the time and the mass media is trading on it’s image. There seems to be at lot of interest out there, so I’d love to be involved in that.

FF. Why would you recommend surfing to others.

No, the waters already too crowded. Haha…..Nah I think everyone should give it a go but it does come with a health warning. Surfing is an addiction that can give you the highest highs but some of the lowest lows. You end up shaping your life around the weather and waves and making sure you are always able to get to the beach whenever they’re breaking. I find myself never committing to any plans and permanently checking synoptic charts to make sure I never miss a day of swell. Any money I have is spent on flights.

FF. Whats the best way to get into surfing in the UK

There are so many surf schools in the South West now. Pretty much every beach with surf will have its own surf school. It’s worth getting a days lessons just to learn the safety and etiquette but then after that get the cheapest second hand board you can buy and get out there and practice.

FF. Who is your inspiration

It’s impossible not to say Kelly Slater…..he’s the best surfer ever to have lived and also great ambassador for the sport. There was a British surfer called Ted Deerhurst who was a bit of a hero of mine. He actually wasn’t really a good but I loved his spirit. He devoted his life to following the competitions of the world, moved to Hawaii, chased big waves and never gave up despite frequently posting some of the lowest scores in world competitions. Sadly he died at a fairly young age but he certainly made an impression on me.

FF. Surfing has a lot of style and skill, who's style do you admire and how would you describe your riding style.

There are so many surfers who I admire. I love to watch a Californian surfer called Dane Reynolds who’s pushing the boundaries of the sport but then there is a British guy called Reubyn Ash who I think is one of the best aerialist in the world at the moment. Having good style is a really hard thing to do, Id love to say I had fast flowing style but compared to those guys I probably look like a learner.